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Sigiriya

 

From the highlands we descended to Sigiriya, location of the ancient capital and of the Dambulla Cave Temples dating from the second century BCE.  The largest of these has been dated to circa 80 BCE.

 

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 The Dambulla Cave Temples are a massive undertaking - extending over more than two thousand years.

 

According to Wikipedia the official religion of Sri Lanka is Buddhism (70.2% of the population) with other religions relative late commers as follows: Hinduism 12.6%; Islam 9.7%; Christianity 7.4%; Other/None 0.1%.

I fall into the last group and, when we travel (for example to Egypt or Greece or Cambodia or Myanmar), I often look on in wonder at the vastness of human life and physical resources that have been consumed in pursuit of... what?  Nirvana; eternity; prestige; or dare I say: power over others?

 

The Sigiriya Jungles Hotel is also close to the Minneriya National Park, noted for its elephants. On our way we encountered one on the side of the road - exciting we thought.

Very soon we would join a 'safari' and see many more, a lot closer.

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Back at the hotel. a chef showed us how to cook half a dozen different curries. There were some interesting cooking tips. The product was a bit lost on me but Wendy enjoyed them.

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Sigiriya is also the location of the famous Rock Fortress and the nearby ruins of the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa (both UNESCO heritage sites).

The next day, those who wanted to climb the Rock Fortress did so. But the 5am start deterred us and schadenfreude was on our side - it was too misty to see the promised vista.

After a leisurely breakfast, awaiting the early bird's return, we all visited the similarly ancient medieval ruins of Polonnaruwa. We started with a visit to the 'great' king - carved in stone.

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I was impressed by the vast quantities of kiln-fired bricks, of several different dimensions, suggesting construction over a considerable period - some perhaps modern (?) - involved in these structures.

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The pyramid-shaped, seven storied building, above, is thought to be an unusually shaped stupa, built during the Polonnaruwa Period (11th -13th century).

Similar Stupa’s can be seen in Cambodia and Thailand. So, it's thought this was built for Cambodian soldiers who were mercenaries employed by the great king.

The huge bun-shaped stupa is the largest all-brick stupa in the world.

Below is another temple complex. I photographed it from a distance as I was wearing shorts and Buddhists are offended by bare knees. Previously, I'd wrapped them up but by this stage I was Buddha'd out.

 

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Travel

Burma (Myanmar)

 

This is a fascinating country in all sorts of ways and seems to be most popular with European and Japanese tourists, some Australians of course, but they are everywhere.

Since childhood Burma has been a romantic and exotic place for me.  It was impossible to grow up in the Australia of the 1950’s and not be familiar with that great Australian bass-baritone Peter Dawson’s rendition of Rudyard Kipling’s 'On the Road to Mandalay' recorded two decades or so earlier:  

Come you back to Mandalay
Where the old flotilla lay
Can't you hear their paddles chunking
From Rangoon to Mandalay

On the road to Mandalay
Where the flying fishes play
And the Dawn comes up like thunder
out of China 'cross the bay

The song went Worldwide in 1958 when Frank Sinatra covered it with a jazz orchestration, and ‘a Burma girl’ got changed to ‘a Burma broad’; ‘a man’ to ‘a cat’; and ‘temple bells’ to ‘crazy bells’.  

Read more: Burma (Myanmar)

Fiction, Recollections & News

Les Misérables - The Musical

 

The musical Les Misérables has returned to Sydney.   By now we have both seen several versions.    

But we agreed that this new version is exceptional, with several quite spectacular staging innovations and an excellent cast of singers with perhaps one exception who was nevertheless very good.

Despite an audience that was obviously very familiar with the material (if I'm to judge by the not so sotto voce anticipatory comments from the woman next to us) the production managed to evoke the required tears and laughter in the appropriate places.  The packed theatre was clearly delighted and, opera style, the audience shouted approval at and applauded several of the vocal performances, some were moved to a standing ovation at the end.

 

 

Read more: Les Misérables - The Musical

Opinions and Philosophy

Australia and Empire

 

 

 

The recent Australia Day verses Invasion Day dispute made me recall yet again the late, sometimes lamented, British Empire.

Because, after all, the Empire was the genesis of Australia Day.

For a brief history of that institution I can recommend Empire: How Britain Made the Modern World by Scottish historian Niall Campbell Ferguson.

My choice of this book was serendipitous, unless I was subconsciously aware that Australia Day was approaching.  I was cutting through our local bookshop on my way to catch a bus and wanted something to read.  I noticed this thick tomb, a new addition to the $10 Penguin Books (actually $13). 

On the bus I began to read and very soon I was hooked when I discovered references to places I'd been and written of myself.  Several of these 'potted histories' can be found in my various travel writings on this website (follow the links): India and the Raj; Malaya; Burma (Myanmar); Hong Kong; China; Taiwan; Egypt and the Middle East; Israel; and Europe (a number).  

Over the next ten days I made time to read the remainder of the book, finishing it on the morning of Australia Day, January the 26th, with a sense that Ferguson's Empire had been more about the sub-continent than the Empire I remembered.

Read more: Australia and Empire

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